Ethiopia is in many ways considered the birthplace of the African identity. It is the only country in the continent that has successfully resisted colonisation and its heritage as the site where Homo Sapiens (anatomically modern human beings) first emerged. In fact, the foremost organisation for African countries is hosted in its capital Addis Ababa. Black consciousness also reveres this country in the horn of Africa, with the Rastafari movement claiming it as the motherland of all people of African extraction.
While a large part of this reputation is exaggerated by descendants of African slaves, there is no denying that Ethiopia has a special place in Africa so much so that its national colours (also known as the Rasta colours) are incorporated in the flags of many other African countries.
Background
This fascinating country is the second most populous nation in Africa after Nigeria with a population of over 100 million. Ethiopia boasts its calendar, which differs from the standard Gregorian one as it has a seven-year lag; Ethiopians are currently in the year 2008.
Ethiopia traces its roots as a distinct entity to the second century BC. For a long time, it was ruled by several different monarchies, the last of which was ruled by Emperor Haile Selassie (Ras Tafari Makonnen). He was deposed by a communist insurrection in 1974. This hailed the beginning of a long period of turmoil that resulted in economic hardship and bloodshed. The situation stablilised in 1994 with the enactment of a new constitution establishing a parliamentary republic. Ethiopia has since flourished to become the largest economy in the east and Central Africa region.
The Christian Orthodox church is the largest religious entity, with Sunni Islam coming in second. Amharic is the official language although English is the primary foreign language.
How to get there
The quickest way into Ethiopia is via Addis Ababa’s Bole Airport. Several carriers fly into this airport, which is one of the busiest in Africa. Kenya Airways has several weekly flights into Bole. Its main competitor as the continent’s best airline – Ethiopian Airline – similarly offers connections from Nairobi daily.
Intrepid travelers can use the overland route via Moyale, which takes four to five days but is fraught with delays and long hours of back-breaking road through incredibly hot terrain. Kenyan citizens may enter Ethiopia visa-free for up to one year. Residents of most other countries can obtain visas at the airport or border crossing.
Attractions
Mercato or market in Addis Ababa is the largest outdoor market in the world. Here you can get everything from custom T-shirts to high-grade coffee. To have a positive experience, loosen up and prepare to haggle like in any African market but avoid brokers. Alternatively, you can delay your authentic marketplace experience until you get to Bahar Dar. The market there is equally vibrant and less populated. You can thereafter take a boat ride on Lake Tana and visit island monasteries that are several millennia old.
The following day, you can drive to Gondar. The Unesco World Heritage Site has five castles that were constructed by Ethiopian Kings starting from the 17th Century. Visit the church of Debre Selassie, renowned for its wondrous ceiling depicting angels.
Take a flight to Lalibela to see the ancient rock-hewn churches that are still in use to date. If it is within your budget, get a local guide to give you the special history of each church.
Take a flight or rent a car to reach the primeval stelae fields of Axum that were constructed more than 2,000 years ago. If time permits, visit the new Archeological Museum.
For the outdoor enthusiast, rafting on the Omo River is an unforgettable experience; this can be arranged with any one of the many tour firms in Addis. Similarly, an excursion into the Danakil Depression – one of the lowest and hottest points on earth at 125 metres below sea level is a memorable experience.
The people of Ethiopia
Abysinnia, as Ethiopia was formerly known is made up of diverse cultures. Most of its people are of Semitic/Cushitic origin. The Amhara, Oromo, Tegrean, and Somali ethnic groups constitute more than a third of its population but it has more than 80 different tribal groups.
If you are in the country around January 11, make sure to check out the Timkat Festival which is one of the most colourful cultural festivals in Africa. It celebrates the Epiphany, the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan River.
Cuisine
Injera – a spongy, tasty sour flatbread – is Ethiopia’s national dish made from the Teff grain grown in the Ethiopian highlands. It is baked in giant slices similar to pancakes and served with Wot – traditional stews made with legumes or spices. This is available in almost all Ethiopian eateries but be warned never to use your left hand even if you are left-handed to eat as this is considered a sacrilege.
An Ethiopian meal would never be complete without the coffee ceremony. Coffee originated from the Kafe region of Ethiopia. The preparation of coffee is a ritual involving the measured roasting of coffee beans over a flat pan. The beans are then ground with a pestle and mortar. This powder is then boiled in a special clay pot and served with popcorn.
I found Mili Firfir Ye Fikir Maad, National Cafe, Top View, and Blue Tops restaurants in Addis to have superlative offerings of these local dishes. Habesha restaurant not only has excellent cuisine but entertains diners with traditional Ethiopian music and dancers for a wholesome experience.
The local drink made of honey wine is known as Tej and is worth sampling though its sweet taste is deceptive and can easily get you inebriated. Addis Ababa has a roaring nightlife catering to most tastes and is even cheaper than a night out in Nairobi.
Geographical features
Lake Tana on the northern border is the source of the Blue Nile. While the Great Rift Valley dissects the landscape of Ethiopia from the northeast to the southwest, this splits a vast range of mountains from plateaus dissected by several rivers. On its verges are lowlands of semi-arid regions.
This country offers a different perspective of Africa. Ethiopia has few rivals when it comes to unique historical sites, contrasting landscapes, and immersive authentic cultural opportunities. It reveals a complex and developed culture that existed before western influence. Ethiopia is truly the home of Africa.
First published in the print issue of September 2017.
Email: management@kim.ac.ke
